Chestnut Sticky Buns

Chestnut Sticky Buns, Barrett? Why are you messing with perfection? It’s a reasonable question, I agree. I have a reasonable answer though. I really love a good sticky bun, I mean, really, who doesn’t? Despite that, I seldom order them out, because, so often they’re disappointing. And once you know how much butter and sugar goes into the darn things, well, one can’t afford to be disappointed. The sticky bun needs to be really fresh, as in made that day, because they dry out so quickly and the dough loses its tenderness and then you have to microwave it to eat it and then you have to wolf it down really quickly or it hardens back up because microwaving is terrible for heating things. True tragedy, I know. So of course, like so many things in life, I decided that if I wanted it done right, I had to do it myself. So I decided I’d learn to make the perfect sticky bun for Christmas Brunch. And then of course, since I was making it myself, I began tweaking the recipes, because if I have to make it myself, then it may as well be exactly how I want it. … Continue reading

Blackberry Sage Refrigerator Jam

I love preserving, but when it comes to jam, I tend to make refrigerator jam for a variety of reasons. This week, my Blackberry Sage Refrigerator Jam was made with a very specific recipe in mind. Having a specific recipe in mind is a huge part of why I make refrigerator jam instead of true preserves. See, I like lots of flavors. I like to pair jam to my season and my breakfast. Another great reason to make refrigerator jam? I often have fruits I want to use up. Those tangerines that are going bad in the winter? That looks like orange marmalade to me. The raspberries and peaches that you bought for a dollar from the farmers market? That looks like refrigerator jam perfect for topping french toast. Serving Spanish blue cheese and manchego? Why not make your own quince jam? See what I mean? Finally, I don’t have a lot of storage space for lots of back stock jams, so I tend to only make one or two jars worth at a time. And this week, I was making a champagne, breakfast for dinner, bon voyage party meal (Blue Ridge Mountain Benedicts) that called for Blackberry Sage Refrigerator … Continue reading

Pantry Tips: Buttermilk in a Pinch

What do you do when you really want Flaky, Buttery, Food Processor Buttermilk Biscuits, but you’re out of buttermilk? Dirty Laundry Kitchen Pantry Tips: Substitution Edition: Buttermilk in a Pinch to the rescue. Correct me if I’m wrong, but buttermilk is one of those weird ingredients that is never around when you need it. I feel like I buy it for a specific purpose and then there’s a ton leftover, so it sits in my fridge a long time until the carton is bulging and I’m very afraid. Then, I throw it away without recycling because I’m unwilling to open it long enough to rinse it out. Or, I get really excited and make a few recipes all at once, only to find out I’m actually short a half a cup. Never fear, this problem is history with this helpful Pantry Tip: Substitution Edition: Buttermilk in a Pinch. 1 cup milk (2% or higher if you’re trying to be very authentic) 1 tablespoon (or a little more) of lemon juice or vinegar Buttermilk was traditionally a by product of liquid that was leftover when cream was churned into butter. The tangy flavor came from lactic acid. Today, the commercial product … Continue reading

Smoky, Spicy Buttermilk Dressing

When I know I’m going to serve my guests something like the Seriously Good Extra Crispy Fried Chicken I’m about to unleash on my Updated Southern Supper Menu, I do more than start them off with a really light appetizer like my Spicy Mint and Dill Quick Pickled Beans and Carrots. I also make a lightweight salad that’s super simple, but packed with all the flavor of a Smoky, Spicy Buttermilk Dressing. The most important ingredient in this recipe is the buttermilk itself, so if you have a brand you love, or know where to get some from a local farmstand, it will make a huge difference. I love the buttermilk from Fair Food Philly in the Reading Terminal Market. They have amazing dairy in general; it’s where I get sheeps milk for my Lemon Verbena Ice Cream and they even sell raw milk there. It’s worth experimenting with different brands and figuring out what is most flavorful to you because it absolutely makes this salad special. The dressing is so good and the lettuce is so tender and mild that some super sweet tiny tomatoes and thin radish slices are all you need. Trust me, you want this Smoky, … Continue reading

Mold-Free Coeur à la Crème

Just the way you want Coeur à la Crème, right? Without the mold? Not that there’s anything wrong with mold, in the right contexts, but in this case? My mom makes Coeur à la Crème frequently. Probably because it’s great for a last minute, but special dessert, if you use her “serve it fresh” variation. She made it in the summer, when we had fresh berries, and sometimes around Valentine’s Day- after all, it is named the heart of the cream. And the best part about this recipe? It’s not to late to stop by the store on the way home and splurge on fancy berries rather than the heart-shaped chocolate assortment and surprise your loved one (or yourself) with your culinary abilities and whip up (literally) some Coeur à la Crème. This classic French dessert is a combination of cream and softened dairy that then is placed in a special draining mold (which is usually heart-shaped) and chilled until the liquid (whey) drains out and what remains (the heart of the cream) firms up into a solid form. It’s often served in an island of fruit puree, but that takes time, which we don’t have. So we’re serving the … Continue reading

Tamale Assembly

It’s finally time for Tamale Assembly. You did all the prep. You bought all the ingredients. It’s time to make the margaritas, await your guests, and learn how to build those tamales. At the bottom of the tutorial, there’s a plan of attack that gives you a timeline of how to pull off the party, stress free. Also, if you’re going to make all three fillings, keep in mind you need to make three batches of the tamale dough before you even think about Tamale Assembly. Tamale Party Plan of Attack: Day 1: Make Salsas and Fillings- note which can be done at the same time. For example, roasting the tomatillos for the salsa and the chicken. You can blend the chicken sauce, then the tomatillo salsa, then the chile rojo salsa in the same blender without washing if you do it in that order (light to dark). This saves time on dishes and baking. Make the tamale dough (one batch per filling). Make hot chocolate if you like. Day 2: To eat at 7pm… Noon: make guacamole; remove dough and fillings from fridge so they can come to room temperature 2pm: have guests arrive; soak husks; make margaritas 2:30pm … Continue reading

Guacamole

For a tamale party, you’re going to need lots of snacks and drinks, so Guacamole is a must. It’s a serious crowd pleaser and you get to eat avocados. My favorite. Make sure you read to the bottom of my Guacamole recipe, the real prize to this recipe is the “notes” at the bottom: what to do to make it special or how to hurry the party along. five ripe avocados ½ cup red onion; minced 1 jalapeño; minced 1-2 cloves garlic; minced ½ cup cilantro chopped ½ cup chopped tomatoes (if it’s winter and you can’t find any you’re happy with, canned diced work) juice of 2 limes 1 ½ teaspoons salt black pepper Juice one lime into a glass bowl (the citrus will keep the avocado from browning too quickly). Halve the avocados. Remove the pits and scoop out the flesh with a spoon. Mash the avocado. Mince the onion, garlic and jalapeño – seed if you like it less spicy, keep the seeds in if you like it spicier. Chop the cilantro and tomatoes. Add in to the avocados. Taste. Add the salt gradually, bearing in mind that guac should be salty and limey, but it’s served … Continue reading

Poached Eggs

I hear all the time how daunting poached Eggs are, and how they’re only something to make for one person or two, because they take too long to make, but I have news for you. Poached eggs are a snap for a group because they’re actually a great make ahead item. As for daunting technique, don’t be frustrated if you don’t get it the first time. Commit to a dozen eggs and poach until you get two perfect in a row. Once you’ve mastered poached eggs, you’ll always have it. And everyone breaks one now and then, that’s just part of the deal. fresh eggs 1 teaspoon white vinegar small pot of boiling water Place small pot of water on to boil. When the water comes to a boil, add the vinegar to the water and turn down the temperature just a touch. The vinegar helps the egg hold together in a compact shape, without those gross flailing egg tendrils (Thomas Keller soaks his eggs in vinegar ahead of time instead- but he’s doing lots of eggs). Using your spatula or slotted spoon, swirl the water into a vortex. Then drop the egg into the swirling water. Cook 2 minutes. … Continue reading

Hollandaise Sauce

Ah Hollandaise Sauce, so simple, yet so tricky. Why do you tempt us so with your lemon butter goodness and very few ingredients only to break and curdle and overcook? Don’t worry, I have a few tips that make making Hollandaise Sauce go smoothly (pun intended) that I’ve learned along the way. “The way” meaning years of running out to the market for another dozen eggs at the last minute before I got it right, so now, you won’t have to head out on in the cold for a perfect Hollandaise Sauce for your brunching needs. Makes 1 ½ cups 3 yolks 1 tablespoon cold water salt cayenne or paprika ⅓ cup clarified butter 8 tablespoons cold unsalted butter 1-3 tablespoons lemon juice Okay. So after reading MANY Hollandaise recipes over the years, I finally figured out what the water bath and the double boiler techniques are really all about: temperature control. Eggs scramble quickly. And since I don’t use water baths or double boilers very often, that’s not actually the best way for ME to have control of the temperature. So I make Hollandaise over the stove in my smallest pot. I also keep a bowl of room temperature … Continue reading

Pastry Dough for a Two-crust 9-inch Pie

I’ve been making this Pastry Dough for a Two-crust 9-inch Pie (from Fannie Farmer) FOREVER. There are lots of great pastry doughs out there, and you should definitely know a few, but if you’re only going to learn one, it should probably be this Pastry Dough for a Two-crust 9-inch Pie. It’s great for pies, quiche, Snow Day Chicken Pot Pie, and tarts. Pastry Dough for a Two-crust 9-inch Pie keeps well in the freezer. I often have one on hand, for just in case. ¾ cups butter; diced and very cold ½ teaspoons salt 2 ½ cups flour; put it in the food processor bowl and put it in the fridge for an hour 6 – 7 tablespoons ice water Preheat oven to 425° F. Food process the salt, flour and butter until tiny peas form. Slowly add in the water until the mixture just holds together.  It won’t be uniform or a solid mass. Remove and form into a ball with your hands. Divide in two. Sprinkle counter with flour. Roll out the bottom layer as thinly as possible. Set into pie pan. Fill with fruit of your choice (sour cherries pictured). Roll out top layer. Cover. Decorate as … Continue reading

Pâte Sablée (Sweet Tart Dough)

Pâte Sablée (Sweet Tart Dough) is another repertoire recipe that’s a good one to know. It’s different from regular Pastry Dough due to the higher amount of sugar in the dough, as well as the egg. It’s a more forgiving dough to work with, because of the binding properties in egg, which is a nice quality in a dough, and therefore, a great dough for beginning bakers. Another property is that it doesn’t stay as flaky; it’s more of a tart dough, and is more like a cookie shell in texture, which works really well with fruit tarts and sweet custards, etc. I wouldn’t use Pâte Sablée (Sweet Tart Dough) in place of Pastry Dough for everything, but it’s a great one to know in the summer when fruit abounds. I also learned a great trick from the Tartine cookbook. When you are planning on blind baking these empty and filling them later with custards or fruits, etc., you can brush the inside of the dough with egg white before you bake it. This will “seal” the shell, so to speak, which will slow down the process of the shell getting soggy and soft. All in all, this versatile Pâte Sablée (Sweet … Continue reading

Brioche

Making bread is always an adventure. And this recipe has tripped me up in the past. It’s a good reminder to read all recipes carefully well in advance of cooking them. First of all, I didn’t bother to read the recipe more than a day ahead. This is a major error when baking. Some recipes require long rise times, and this is one of them. This recipe is best started a full day ahead of time! It’s important to read the texture descriptions associated with each step carefully, as that is how you will notice if a baking recipe isn’t working quite right if you are an inexperienced baker. The good news is, this is a forgiving recipe probably because with all the eggs and butter, it’s going to be delicious no matter what. Also, I’ve bolded all the rising times so that you won’t make the mistakes I did. Don’t be intimidated by the amount of time required by the rolls. Most of that time, they’re hanging out and you’re doing other things- like sleeping. Just make sure that you make enough rolls so that there’s some brioche leftover for breakfast tomorrow. Top with a poached egg or some … Continue reading