Kitchen Sink Black Bean and Ham Soup

When it comes to using up leftover Easter Ham, it doesn’t get much better, or much easier than Kitchen Sink Black Bean and Ham Soup. And I got to run down some of the odds and ends I’d stashed in my freezer. That’s not to say that this improvised cooking project didn’t require a little creativity and flexibility. In one of my previous lives, I was a high school English teacher, and I taught Steinbeck’s Of Mice and Men. To introduce the book, I’d always start with Robert Burns poem, To a Mouse, on Turning Her Up in Her Nest with the Plough. I often quote from his beautiful poem, (from which Of Mice and Men takes its name) when things don’t work out as I’ve expected. In my terrible Scottish accent I say, “The best-laid schemes o’ mice an’ men Gang aft agley.” That phrase inspired a whole category of recipes I call “Gang aft agley” and it includes Beet Gnocchi, an amazing artichoke tale you can read all about before making Artichoke and Preserved Lemon Soup and to a lesser degree, this Kitchen Sink Black Bean and Ham Soup. I started in the crockpot, but I didn’t end … Continue reading

Two Bottle Boeuf Bourguinon

Want to hear a Dirty Laundry Kitchen dirty secret? I’ve been struggling to cook and write the past couple of weeks. The oscillating temperatures, my intense need for Spring and sunshine, travel for work and for fun, none of this has been conducive to time in the kitchen to think creatively. And that’s sad, because there’s been lots of inspiration. Furthermore, being away from my kitchen meant that I didn’t do a Mardi Gras menu (which I’ve been itching to do for ages) and you’re stuck with last year’s ideas on St. Paddy’s. The good news? It’s so cold and windy today in Philly that I’m inspired to share my take on the French classic Boeuf Bourguinon. So here it is, in all its two kinds of onions, two kinds of meat, two bottles of wine, rich and hearty glory. Two Bottle Boeuf Bourguinon is all about slow food. And cold days. And tender meat and root vegetables. It’s about red wine that you drink while you’re cooking and buttered bread. Two Bottle Boeuf Bourguinon is satisfying and savory and every carnivore in the cold should know how to make it. Of course, Two Bottle Boeuf Bourguinon is based on … Continue reading

Tamale Assembly

It’s finally time for Tamale Assembly. You did all the prep. You bought all the ingredients. It’s time to make the margaritas, await your guests, and learn how to build those tamales. At the bottom of the tutorial, there’s a plan of attack that gives you a timeline of how to pull off the party, stress free. Also, if you’re going to make all three fillings, keep in mind you need to make three batches of the tamale dough before you even think about Tamale Assembly. Tamale Party Plan of Attack: Day 1: Make Salsas and Fillings- note which can be done at the same time. For example, roasting the tomatillos for the salsa and the chicken. You can blend the chicken sauce, then the tomatillo salsa, then the chile rojo salsa in the same blender without washing if you do it in that order (light to dark). This saves time on dishes and baking. Make the tamale dough (one batch per filling). Make hot chocolate if you like. Day 2: To eat at 7pm… Noon: make guacamole; remove dough and fillings from fridge so they can come to room temperature 2pm: have guests arrive; soak husks; make margaritas 2:30pm … Continue reading

Mushroom and Kale Tamales

Of the three different tamales on my Hot Tamale Dinner Menu, these Mushroom and Kale Tamales are my favorites. That is quite the accolade too, because they’re all amazing. The strong mushroom and kale flavor is perfectly balanced against the dark chile rojo salsa. Even when we make all 30 of each kind, and we’re eating them for months, I never get tired of these Mushroom and Kale Tamales. The only modification I make from the original recipe is to omit the cheese and cilantro. While I’m sure they’re really good as conceived, I’ve never made them that way. To be sure, they are plenty rich without the cheese and it’s nice to have options for guests who are lactose intolerant. This is important to me because one of my favorite tamale builders tends to stay away from cheese. I’m glad I skipped it the very first time, because now I make it cheese free every time. So, so good. That’s all you need to say. While tamales are truly a lot of work, these Mushroom and Kale Tamales will make you incredibly glad you put in the time and your freezer is full of leftovers. … Continue reading

Snow Day Chicken Pot Pie

Today, it’s the day for Snow Day Chicken Pot Pie. You know the kind. The wind chill is below freezing, there are logs on the fire; I could curl up and read all day, but fortunately, Chloe T. Dog makes me bundle up to go out for a walk and play in the snow. It’s the kind of day where mittens hang by the fire to dry out. Showers are long and luxurious. Flannel PJ’s are a must. Marshmallows float on rich Hot Chocolate. Cooking is slow and frequent and the extra heat from the oven is welcome. A day such as this demands the right kind of lunch baking in the oven while I’m outside. And as you can imagine, I have the perfect lunch for a day such as this: Snow Day Chicken Pot Pie. My take on the classic chicken pot pie pumps up the vegetables and lowers the fat without sacrificing taste. With the healthier cooking choices I make for this traditionally rich dish, there will be room left in the caloric budget for that hot chocolate I was talking about. And don’t worry, you don’t have to wait for snow or even cold to make … Continue reading

Butternut Squash and Bean Tamale Filling

Butternut Squash and Bean Tamale Filling came about after trying out the tamale filling recipes of others, because I wanted to make one of my own. I decided on a vegetarian filling, since the tamale dough itself is so rich in and of itself. The beautiful colors of the beans and squash in this one make it special. It paired well with both the tomatillo salsa and the chile rojo, and it was much easier to prepare than the chile lime chicken and mushroom kale fillings, so that helped on a busy tamale party day. Any leftovers of this Butternut Squash and Bean Tamale Filling are great with poached eggs and tortillas for breakfast. 1 cup shallots (or red onions if you can’t easily find them) 1 jalapeño seeded and diced 2 cloves garlic olive oil 1 can black beans 1 cup pinto beans 2 cups butternut squash; peeled, seeded and diced (the size of a bean) ½ cup cilantro ½ cup queso fresco or other fresh cheese (even feta works in a pinch) 1 teaspoon cumin seeds salt 1 lime zest and juice Chop the shallots or onions medium fine. In a large frying of sauté pan, add the … Continue reading

Leftover Thanksgiving Enchiladas

Every year I yearn for Thanksgiving turkey just so I can have these Leftover Thanksgiving Enchiladas. I’ve been making these for years, but I never get sick of them. This year, I started making a vegetarian version with mushrooms instead of turkey so I don’t have to wait for Thanksgiving. I bet you’ll follow in my footsteps after you’ve had these just once. The squash makes it fall and cozy, and the leftover cranberry relish is perfection in these Leftover Thanksgiving Enchiladas. 2 cups onions 2 cups poblanos and/or green bell peppers 2 cups celery 2 cups butternut squash 2 cups shredded or chopped turkey (sautéed mushrooms to make it vegetarian) ¼ cup flour ¾ cup milk 8 ounces Monterey Jack cheese shredded, plus a little extra for the top 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup green salsa salt 16 tortillas green salsa Sour cream leftover cranberry relish Dice the onions, peppers (poblanos will be hotter, bells milder), and celery. Sauté the onions, peppers, and celery in the olive oil until softened. (If you’re making them vegetarian, sauté the mushrooms first, then set aside and use the same pan for the rest of the veggies). Meanwhile, dice the butternut squash. … Continue reading

Drumstick Mole

We’re finally onto the main course: Drumstick Mole. For Mexican Thanksgiving 2012, I served this drumstick mole from Fine Cooking. Drumstick Mole is admittedly an ambitious project. But it’s an amazing mole sauce. Trust me, I tested a lot of recipes and this was a favorite. The upside of all the hard work is that you can make it ahead of time and just reheat it in a crock pot and set it out the day of Thanksgiving. Also, it’s a great way to handle a large crowd. I bought as many drumsticks as would fit in my large stock pot and then scaled up this recipe. We had some nice leftovers and I can attest to the fact that Drumstick Mole froze well, too. For the poached drumsticks: 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves 6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic 6 whole allspice berries 4 fresh or dried bay leaves 2 teaspoon cumin seeds 2 teaspoon black peppercorns 2 teaspoon coriander seeds 2 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon fennel or aniseed One 4-inch cinnamon stick 4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 pounds total) For the mole sauce: 3 … Continue reading

Roast Pumpkin with Cheese “Fondue”

This Roast Pumpkin with Cheese “Fondue” is an old Gourmet magazine recipe that I’d wanted to try for years. Last year, I finally did it. I used a giant squash called a Cheese Pumpkin at the suggestion of a local farmstand. It was huge! Somewhere between 15 and 21 pounds. Last year I was serving 19, so I figured go big or go home. I scaled the Roast Pumpkin with Cheese “Fondue” recipe up by about 2.5. It worked perfectly. Because the squash variety the farmer picked has a nice skin that’s good at holding its form, the squash stayed intact, even as I sliced it. The result was miraculous really. I could not believe the gorgeous, perfect pie slices that transferred onto the plates with ease. I served it with a very simple bitter green salad that was a nice contrast to the richness of the pumpkin. It was paired with a dry riesling and was by far the most dramatic dish of Thanksgiving 2012. I really didn’t alter the recipe at all, other than to scale up. Also, I’ve included some notes on the cheese and you should consider carefully how to pick a pumpkin. But other than that, … Continue reading

Eggplant Mushroom “Meat”balls

When eggplant season is in full swing, I am always looking for cool ways to eat them up, like these Eggplant Mushroom “Meat”balls. Added bonus for Marc if the new recipes are not too “eggplanty”; he gets tired of them way before I do. Since spaghetti with marinara is one of Marc’s favorite foods, Eggplant Mushroom “Meat”balls was a no brainer. It’s based on a recipe for vegetarian meatloaf I made a long time ago, and is another great late summer, early fall transition recipe because it’s a great base for some of that banged-up tomato sauce. The breadcrumbs make the meatballs hearty and filling and the eggplant and mushrooms make it rich and meaty tasting, without the meat. 1 large eggplant (1 – 1 ½ pounds) 1 egg 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms 1 tablespoon fresh parsley (1 teaspoon if dried) 1 tablespoon fresh basil (1 teaspoon if dried) 2 teaspoons salt (inverse to the amount of cheese you pick) ½ teaspoon black pepper 4 ounces parmesan cheese; reserve some for garnish 2 cloves garlic 1 cup bread crumbs (I had homemade ½ white, ½ whole wheat on hand) 2 tablespoons olive oil Banged-Up Tomato Sauce Parmesan Cherry Tomatoes Preheat … Continue reading

Crab Corn Chowder

It’s finally time for Crab Corn Chowder. While it’s still been gorgeous in Philly and much of me has been living the life of a fall denialist, this past Friday I took my parents out to Terrain for some fall gardening and pumpkin picking. Let’s just say that it inspired me to remember some of the reasons I love fall. And it eased my bitterness at Summer’s end just enough to encourage a little soup making. I make two styles of chowder, and I switch back and forth between the two constantly. My Skinny Clam Chowder uses potatoes as a thickener while this Crab Corn Chowder recipe uses flour. Of course the techniques are interchangeable, sometimes I use the potato method with Crab and the flour method with clams, it doesn’t matter, but it’s great to know both, because they both have their virtues. This Crab Corn Chowder is great because it’s filling and hearty but light and surprisingly low fat and calorie given its rich taste. I love Crab Corn Chowder for a welcome to fall dinner, complete with apple cocktails, rosemary rolls and Apple Cranberry Pie. 2 cups celery; diced 2 cups onions; diced 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon butter … Continue reading

Soba Noodle Salad with Asian Pesto

Soba Noodle Salad with Asian Pesto is one more delicious pesto use. This one requires a little modification, so I’ve written it out again, but it’s useful to compare it to the original so you get a sense of how to modify pesto type sauces in general. Soba Noodle Salad with Asian Pesto is a great salad to make year round as it’s fairly easy to find good quality cherry tomatoes, radishes and cukes all the time. It’s also quick and easy. And if you don’t think you’ll eat all the pasta at the same time, just cook what you need or cook it all but don’t add the pesto to all of it, because of the oil and acid in the pesto, it breaks down the noodles and makes them soggy. But if you store the extra noodles separately, they’ll be fine and you’ll have the joy of Soba Noodle Salad with Asian Pesto leftovers. 1 pound Asian eggplant Kosher salt ½ pound buckwheat soba noodles 1 cup cherry tomatoes 1 cup radishes 1 cup English cucumber Asian Pesto: 2 cups fresh basil leaves (thai if you can find them) ⅓ cup cashews 2-4 cloves of garlic ½ cup olive … Continue reading